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Use to sharpen dull chainsaws. For use with Dremel rotary tools (model No. 275, 285, 395, 398, and 781). Includes: Sharpening attachment, 3 sharpening stones, 2 spacers, gauge, and wrench. Available Only At Cape.
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Technical Details
- Compatible with Dremel rotary tool models 275, 285, 395, 398 and 781- Includes 3 sharpening stones for various saws
- Made from durable plastic and metal construction
- Includes sharpening attachment, 3 sharpening stones, gauge, 2 spacers and manual
- Convenient, light weight of only 3-1/2-Ounce
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By Mike Rado (Manchaca, Texas)
The product works as advertised. Keeps my chain sharp with a minimum of effort
By R. Campbell (Northern VA)
This little dremel tool gadget is the best thing since sliced bread. It took literally minutes to do what days with a hand file could not do. Very impressive device and worth every penny if you own a chain saw or know someone who does.
By Bruce W. Bonner (Philadelphia, USA)
there's not much to the package . . . just a few parts. I would have made the chain holder out of metal rather than plastic and I would have provided a second grinding stone. When the first wears down, you'll need to buy an entire new kit. But it reconditions the chain as promised.
By G. N. Zito (Woodbrige, CT)
Lets you to keep working with a sharp chain without the long down time. I upgrade the bits to the diamond flake ones worth the added money.
By Terry M. (Seattle, WA United States)
I have my chains sharpened professionally when they begin to cut crooked due to uneven wear. Otherwise, I touch them myself as soon as they fail to cut uniform shavings. This usually occurs after about an hour of cutting hardwoods or two hours of softwoods. If the bar gets into the dirt or you hit a nail you will be sharpening even sooner. You can either carry several chains to get you through the day or be prepared to touch them up on the bar.
I prefer to touch up my own chains because the saw shops usually take off about 2MM of steel when they sharpen. At that rate, a chain does not last very long. If you touch up your own chains when they first begin to dull, you will only take off a few thousandths of an inch.
This tool works well if you gauge the grinder off of the tooth as described in some of the other posts. The problem is powering the grinder while in the field. Cordless grinders don't hold a charge very long so you need to carry extra batteries. Corded grinders need a place to be plugged in. Either solution limits you mobility.
I prefer the "Oregon" brand file and gauge. No electricity required and it easily goes in your thigh pocket or field kit. Only one or two strokes per tooth needed for a touch-up and you are back to work. The gauge make it easy for even a neophyte to maintain proper tooth shape and depth.
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